Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Old Town Torn Down

We had hot Turkish tea in a cafe next to the cargo boat port. It was late in the day and we'd already missed the boat to Turkmenbashi, if one even left that day. As we drank, the sweat rose, already sun-clotted from my pores, thick like sugar water and I began to nod off as I had been doing all day, mostly because we've been moving without a break for the last few days.
The Tbilisi airport was quiet in the early evening, we took a bus for free because no one as ever asked me to pay for a bus in Georgia, because I never have exact change.
Under the bright sodium arcs I skated through an empty parking lot to the sound of far off airplane engines.
The emptiness of the airport was solmem, almost reverant somehow. I read a little, listening to the suffle of automated advirtisements changing images and the soft broom drift of the peragrine cleaning lady, drifting from one corner of the concourse to the other, regardless of cleanliness.
Fell asleep around 12, using my shoes as a pillow and was awakened around 3 by a man tried, in poor English to explain the soviet period to some foreigners. I heard him say Brezhnev, and when they didn't understand who he meant he changed the antagonist of his story to Stalin instead. I chuckled a little and soon fond that I wasn't going to get back to sleep.
The night air outside the airport and a filmy cigarette, like garbage smoke almost, burning my throat and my tired eyes.
We landed in Baku shortly after we left Tbilisi, just enough time for a coffee (ersatz) and a few glances out the window, toward the ground I would've prefered to travel.
It's an airport, so there's really nothing there. High walls lining the highway back into town, huge apartment buildings and sculptures; Azerbaijan looks a lot like Turkey, at least in the capital there's not much in the way of  Typical Caucasian Effluvia.
Since then it's been the Uzbek embassy, sequestered like they all seem to be; a visa, a bus ride that lasted much longer than it should've; a cup of instant coffee; that tea I mentioned earlier and all of it done, beautifully, without socks on, just to remind myself that as I transverse a boring, overbuilt and grey town in the summer heat that I am on vacation.
The boat to Turkmenbashi isn't looking too promising, tomorrow we'll bring our stuff down there and make enough of a nuisance to either get a lift or get booted out.

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